The train from Zurich was the first time I'd ever taken an overnight train, we changed at Leipzig onto a rather drab and suspiciously East German looking train. But whatever uneasiness I felt was instantly dispelled when we got to the Old Town Square, Charles Bridge, the castle and saw the well-preserved buildings and churches. The change to democratic society has treated Prague better than in other former Eastern European cities.
Prague, kind of like many similar cities, is great to explore on foot, with its network of cobblestone, medieval streets lined with Baroque buildings. The hub of operations is naturally the Old Town Square where there are two churches, the Old Town Hall, the Kafka museum and the astronomical clock.
A short walk from the square is Charles Bridge which is full of tourists and hawkers peddling all sorts of souvenirs and crafts. Walk on from the bridge and it's Prague Castle which took a good half day to explore.
The major attraction is the river. Either walking along the peaceful paths away from the throngs, or on one of the many available cruises, it is a truly magnificent sight.
Food was typical meat, potato and dumpling fare, which could get stodgy after a day or so. Beer was cheap and plentiful, we stumbled across a localish homely feeling restaurant with hardwood tables and grit on the floor and had the best meal of pork and dumplings and beer which as CHF 1 for half a litre.
Not huge nightlife people but there were students handing out leaflets for concerts all over the city and it was too plentiful to ignore. Finally attended one in a small hall of no more than 50 people, music students performing Strauss and the like, not a bad way to spend an evening.