There are tens of thousands of restaurants in Tokyo. In a busy district such as Shibuya, Shinjuku or Ginza, entire buildings are taken up by restaurants, one on each floor. The problem for non-Japanese speakers is that it’s hard to figure out what is offered inside. Some restaurants helpfully provide plastic models but I suspect the good ones don’t, cos they don’t need the advertisement.

Staples of Japanese food are well known — sashimi, sushi, teppanyaki, grilled food, noodle bars, deep fried pork chop, shabu shabu and tempura. That these have become so ingrained internationally is a testament to the popularity of Japanese food.

If ever there is a restaurant I will return to again and again, it’s Ginza Tenkuni, which has been serving tempura since 1885. From a small beginning as a street stall it now occupies a whole building in one of the most expensive areas in Tokyo. The restaurant has 4 floors, and it’s interesting that each floor serves a slightly different style (and price) of tempura.

• basement — counter table but don’t be fooled, dinner starts at ¥10,500
• ground (what they call first) floor — casual seated tables, a simple bowl of tempura on rice for only ¥1,000 to larger sets up to ¥4,725
• second floor — banquet floor with table setting or tatami room, sets start at ¥6,300
• third floor — large tatami room for banquets, tempura is fried at the table

I’ve only eaten on the ground floor, but the selection is already enticing enough. Even a simple set comes with sashimi, pickles, side dish and miso soup

A more sophistical set is the bento box. It comes delicately presented, with several side dishes, soup and flavoured rice.

The best set I’ve enjoyed is a special winter set. It starts with a small salad, moving onto a plate with grilled fish and tiny small bowls of accompaniment.

There’s also sashimi and finally tempura of large prawn, small prawns, fish and vegetables. There’s even a scoop of ice cream to end.